Showing posts with label bun bo hue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bun bo hue. Show all posts

Monday, October 27, 2014

Van's Vietnamese

If you recently caught Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown escapades to Vietnam, you would've been introduced to Central Vietnam and a beloved special soup called bun bo hue. While pho has taken a cult-like following in the States, few have been introduced to its spicy and underrated counterpart. Bourdain even dubs it as "the greatest soup in the world." Looking back, I wish my surly sixteen year old self would have appreciated my family trip to the Hue region of Vietnam. Bourdain really put into perspective how unique and tasty the food from my culture and heritage is. The tiny plastic stools of street side cafes and honking of motorcycles as they pass by is now a distant memory but the flavors of my childhood lingers. As I grow older, I cherish those memories more and more as my mom and her cooking is 200 miles away. One soup that screams comfort food to me is bun bo hue, a spicy Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup. Of course mom makes a killer version but on a recent redemption trip to Van's Vietnamese for pho, I discovered my beloved soup on the menu.
Yes, you too can experience bun bo hue in Albany. It's not just any ole spicy soup, but rather a very rich and complex one. For reasons I don't know, bun bo literally translates to beef noodle soup but the stock highlights more of the pork flavor. It's made with a mix of pig's feet and ham hock slowly simmered with beef shank and flank steak, a touch of fermented shrimp paste, and scented with aromatic lemongrass.  Don't worry, as pungent and funky as shrimp paste can smell, it mellows out in the broth and lends another layer of flavor that sets this soup apart from pho. See that little pot on the left? It's a delightful medley of chiles, lemongrass, more shrimp paste, garlic, and spices. You're gonna want to add a few spoonfuls until the broth is bright and glowing red. 

You won't find exotic bits like blood cake here but for an authentic taste you will find pig's feet with slices of cha lua pork bologna and stewed meats. Like pho, you can add accoutrements to your liking. Instead of banana blossoms, you'll find shredded cabbage alongside fresh herbs and a wedge of lime. Personalize as you wish and get in there and slurp away this spicy noodle soup. Your soul will find so much satisfaction as you sweat away whatever toxins are in your body. 

As for the beef pho? It kind of takes a back seat to the bun bo hue noodle soup but has drastically improved in flavor since our last visit. We finally did the Capital Region pho rounds and even stopped by Pho Yum for comparison after much stubbornness. Now that Kim's Vietnamese is gone, Van's has stepped up in rank as the one of the better pho soups in the area. But what you're really going to want to order is the bun bo hue. 

Monday, November 11, 2013

A Take on TU's Review of Kim's Vietnamese

I felt the need to write my own post on Kim's Vietnamese upon reading Bryan Fitzgerald's Times Union review. The review left me confused. Not that I don't doubt that restaurants have inconsistencies from time to time but some things about the review were off-putting enough for me to share my own thoughts. As a disclaimer, I am a first generation Vietnamese-American (nee Canadian but now a naturalized American) born and raised by immigrant parents. I live a very Americanized lifestyle and don't follow much in way of traditions but if there's one thing about my culture that I wholeheartedly appreciate, it's the food! I have a very unique perspective on Vietnamese food and you can't blame me for being so picky. Have you read what my mom packed for my school lunches? My parents are even more picky and never go out to Vietnamese restaurants unless it's for pho noodle soup. 

My parents and I have eaten pho at most of the Capital Region's Vietnamese restaurants with the exception of Pho Yum because it's a silly name and it's just not right to charge extra for meat on top of a base, and My Linh because they couldn't fathom paying $15 for canh chua soup (a peasant dish that my mom makes all the time) and a bowl of pho for two just didn't make sense. In fact, my dad made us walk out of My Linh upon being seated and seeing the menu. Told you they were picky.

You might think that I am biased towards all things Vietnamese but trust me when I say I've had mediocre Vietnamese food too. Perhaps my taste for Vietnamese food is more discerning than an American palette but I've trained my Irish-American boyfriend to love Vietnamese food and we both disagree with Fitzgerald's take on pho: "Beef broth in our pho — Pho Dac Biet ($8.95) — at Kim's Vietnamese in Albany was a bit weak, a tad sour, just underwhelming enough to fall onto the good-but-not-great side of the pho-broth spectrum." (Times Union).  At times we've had a fattier broth at Kim's but never underwhelming or weak. I don't know what Fizgerald's expectations of what a real pho broth tastes like but it's suppose to be a fine balance of aromatic spices and rich, beefy flavor that has good clarity to it and has a good depth of flavor. Perhaps Fitzgerald is use to places that use more of a bouillon-cube based broth (a taste that my mom has picked up on from other local joints). 

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Pho 88

Sorry for the long hiatus! J & R just got back from a week-long vacation in Maine. We made a point of stopping by some of the best foodie spots in Portland and discovered some great gems along the way and can't wait to share them with you within the next few posts. We are still recovering and slowly detoxing with lots of veggies and salad since I'm pretty sure our cholesterol levels are up the roof. But let me tell you how helpful Yelp was on this year's trip! 

Armed with the trusty Yelp and Foodspotting phone apps, we found a great little Vietnamese place in Lowell, MA. No McDonald's rest area lunch stops for us! If you find yourself anywhere near this area, make a point to stop by Pho 88. I was craving my mom's Bun Bo Hue (a spicy vermicelli soup, with soft tendon, sliced shank, ground shrimp and pork) and was so surprised to find it on the menu that I had to have it and boy did it hit the spot. This version even came with black blood pudding, a little bit too adventurous/Andrew Zimmern Bizzare Food-esque, even for me. The broth was perfectly spicy and full of delightful aromas like lemongrass. It was just as good as mom's (just don't tell her that). 

I'm pretty sure I got J addicted to pho since we started dating. If you have yet to try Vietnamese food, start out with this noodle soup and you'll be hooked. I make an o.k. chicken pho at home (in the crock pot!) but for the beef pho, we usually go out to Van's Vietnamese Restaurant in Albany or Saigon Spring in Clifton Park for the real deal bowl of goodness. One hot steaming bowl of pho is sure to cure any illness. Pho 88's version was just as good, if not better than Albany's. To drink, J had a tra da chanh (limeade made with jasmine tea) and I had a a durian milkshake with tapioca bubbles. Durian! Yup, it's that's funky fruit that to some people smells vile, is banned in enclosed spaces in Asia, but that I find oh so delicious! 

I wish Vietnamese restaurants here in Albany had as much variety as Pho 88 in Mass. They have dishes like bun rieu (Shrimp and crab meat with vermicelli noodle in a special crab tomato soup) and bun mang vit (Duck leg and fried bamboo shoots with vermicelli noodles soup) that are quintessential Vietnamese dishes that I crave and can't get around these parts, unless I place a special
order with mom when she comes to visit. I can't even get a proper bahn mi sandwich (the real deal baguette made with rice flour and schmear of pate) and that makes me want to start up a food truck just so I can eat one. The best ones by the way, are the ones made in Montreal. The Canadian-French-Vietnamese folk make a mean baguette. But until our next road trip east, I'll settle for Albany pho. -R